January 6, 2023

This spot generally only breaks when the swell is super big and has a lot of West in it. A few days ago it all came together, so I packed up my gear and Annie and we headed out to see what the Ocean was sending our direction. The ride there is super beautiful, rolling emerald hills, farmlands, volcanos (extinct of courser!) and then onwards to the Ocean. Coming up over the last hill and seeing corduroy lines is always a really good indicator!! The sets were pretty large, I would call between 20'-30'. The biggest sets seem to catch everyone off guard, bujt these young guns were dropping into every bomb they could! The crew was; Tyler Basille riding the white biard with blie rails, Trenton Runnels riding the board with the big "X" on the deck, Trabis Nelson riding the orange board and Jesse Velte riding the green board. These young men (youngest is 17) are the next generation of Big Wave Chargers around here and it is a pleasure to see new faces out there.