October 30th. 2015

Today Chris and I actually found some of this purported large North West swell! WE checked a bunch of spots, and ended up at Stonehenge. Stonhenge is a lava reef that extends about a half mile out into the ocean. The wind was HOWLING about a continuos 40 knots, but Chris was up for a surf...and Im.......always up for a shoot! After the first wave in these radical conditions, I thought for sure Chris would come in, but he paddled back out about five more time and rode a bunch of waves all to himself. I was the only person on the beach for as far as I could see, so for me, it was exactly what Im always seeking, some shooting with good friends, solitude and the smell of salt air. Always remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb