May 9th. 2016

Abalone Reef came to life earlier this week under a new South Swell. The Beach break was firing and there were many big close out sets coming in and catching EVERYONE snoozing! In between the close outs, there were some really nice corners and every now and then a great tube ride. There wasn't much sun, but other than that conditions were pretty nice. The wind did pick up in the late morning, so my session was limited to about three hours.
Some of the Surfers riding these beautiful waves, were to include; The Knowles Brothers, Tommy Maloney, Walter Cerny, Austin Neuman, Vinnie Leonelli, Braden Jones, Wilbur Ur and many others.
When Abalone Reef is like this, it is very powerful, unforgiving and quite intimidating. For me it is just plain BITCHEN! A great place to shoot, hang out on the beach, see old friends and make a few new ones. Usually speaking the vibe scene is very mellow, with everyone hooting each other to "make that drop." There is always plenty of dogs running around, some bathing beauties and an occasion tourist, that almost always says " Can you see China with that thing."
I first drove out to the Reef in 1967. I love Abalone Reef and it truly feels like home to me.
Remember my chant "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young."