1. Daily Session

May 15th. 2015

Yesterday I was happily awakened with the voice of my buddy Chris Rodriguez screaming "Liebs, there is a new South Swell showing and Ill call ya back in 15." Ok, I must admit, this caught my attention, and also woke me up with my mind whirling about 70 mph. What do I have planned today? What do I have to do? Have I made any promises to my kids to do something with them? Do I have to write checks out and pay bills? Wash dishes or clothes? Are the batteries in my camera charged? SCREW it, Im going shooting!
By the time I got on the highway rolling about 80, Chris called me back saying he had just cruised 20 miles up and down the coast, checking out a lot of our favorite spots to go to. He said "Without a doubt Liebs, Cabali is firing, 6-8 foot and glassy.: SOUNDS GOOD TO ME!
I love shooting at this particular spot. On the right swell, tide and wind combo, many have compared it to Bali, hence the name. I personally have not caught it quite that good, but it does show the potential to live up to the stories I have heard for forty years. Its a really rocky area with lava reef everywhere that you have to walk out over before you can start to paddle out. Big rocks everywhere, and a really sharp and unforgiving bottom that you surf over.
When I arrived, Chris was already out there surfing with three or four other surfers that I did not recognize. I was the only soul up on the bluffs for as far as the eye could see in either direction, just the way I love it. Loads of solitude, slip on my headphones and listen to my favorite music for hours while I shoot.
Chris had made an excellent call, the sets were big, some were hollow and it was glassy. After an hour or so the offshore winds came up, and then shortly thereafter they turned side shore, so still sorta offshore into the barrels.
I had a great time, felt so fulfilled. I knew I had gotten a few good ones. As the other surfers came in, they came over and introduced themselves, and everyone of them was filled with Aloha. So cool
Then Chris took me to this little hole in the wall Mexican restaraunt for lunch. It literally was in an industrial complex that was all metal buildings. The front of the place probably measured about 12 feet wide, and they had one table in front where you could sit and eat. No one spoke very much English, so it gave Chris and I an opportunity to use our Spanish. The food was super good, really like the home cooking style. You could tell that the Dad sorta ran things and it looked like his kids did the cooking.
All in all, I hade a most enjoyable day with my Bud Chris. So always remember my motto "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young."..... Da Lieb
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