March 5th. 2016

When the swell is really BIG, I usually like to go to "The Point." It can usually handle just about anything that the Aluetians throw at it. I have seen it bigger than this a few times. This day there were a handful of Chargers out there. Most of these guys are riding 9 1/2 to 11 foot boards! These guys are serious. Big Wave Surfing is a whole different animal from riding small waves. It can be a life or death situation, and you really have to know what you are doing. There are long paddles involved, huge and very strong rip currents that will pull you into places you don't want to be. there are huge closeout sets that can separate you from your board or worse, images in the back of your head of large mammals swimming under your feet, and of course death. A lot of Big Wave riding is pure adrenalin that you are able to ride these beasts and survive. This particular day, I didn't recognize any of the riders, but there absolutely were some Hellmen out there dropping into huge waves and dodging Big Bombs that were closing out the whole surf zone! I love the Ocean, Surfing of all types and have so much respect for those Brave Few that go out in really big conditions. So always remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb