June 3rd. 2016

The first (for me) real Southern Hemi swell arrived along our Coast. Every break along the coast was firing. I have a special place that I love to go to on South Swell conditions. Its a long drive, long hike in, isolated, uncrowded and RAW, just the way I love it! The waves storm across a jagged lava Reef, and if your not careful, or unlucky, you might take a "Reef Rash" tattoo home along with you board and wetsuit! Usually theres not more than about ten or so Surfers that want to challenge the lava reef, but when its firing it is a really good left hander. This particular day it was foggy, which always is not the best shooting conditions. The sun did peak through now and then making for more colorful images. There was cool marine life along the shore, some great surfing and tons of camaraderie and Aloha in the water and on the beach. I made photographs for eight continuous hours, ending up with almost 4000 images, the most I have ever shot! I hope you enjoy looking at these images from "Lavas" as much as I did making them! Remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb