July 30th. 2015

HoChi's comes through once again under South Swell conditions. Shawn Tract and I were working on a small project for DEEP magazine, featuring this new Bruce Fowler "V" Bottom and we sorta scored some decent test waves for Shawn to ride this new sled. For me, it was really cool, because I lived through those days back in the late 1960's when these revolutionary boards were first shown to the world by the Australians, claiming "Were Tops Now." That claim made the cover of Surfer magazine, and started a revolution that soon afterwards lead to the "Short Board Evolution." And as once was said "And the rest is History."
There were a few other "Mates" out enjoying this Southernly pulse, riding both long and short boards! which was sorta the way it should have been. Shane Koch was riding the inside, which is very hollow, powerful and dangerous. Shane's Dad Steve, was my surfing Buddy for many years, and Shane surfs and looks just like his Dad these days. Steve and his wife Mary now live in Arkansas, so I don't get to see him any more, but Shane is absolutely keeping the tradition alive and well, and being the same "Hell-Man" that his Dad was!
So thats about it from the field today. Remember my motto "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." .... Da Lieb covering this lifestyle since the mid '60's