January 27th. 2017

Being able to isten to my weather radio, reading all the charts online and looking at live cams these days, makes it a little bit easier to plug into the good days. Then once you learn each spot, its likes and dislikes with swell, tide and wind, then you can pack up and head out. You still have a large degree of luck involved in scoring good conditions like sun, fog, rain and wind!!! The other day all the conditions were looking favorable to see some large surf, so I packed up my sixty pound backpack, tripod and miscelaneous other gear that I carry and headed out to some spots that I figured would be firing. The first spot I went to is called "Monsters" just because it is! I caught Chris dropping into one wave and he was done! Not bad for a long hike. Also shot some photos way up the coast of a young charger named Jade Morgan dropping into some huge bombs, surfing for about an hour all by himself. Then packed up the gear and hiked out, and went to Cactus point and made the hike in there. It was firing and made some photos of Ryan , Jon and a couple of other surfers enjoying the beautiful large surf. All in all, it was a super enjoyable day for me, filled with big waves, great rides and plenty of Aloha! So, remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb