January 26th. 2015

I had been waiting a few days for this new swell to show up. Friday morning I left very early while it was pitch black out, stars were shining and I had high hopes of making some photos with the arrival of the large swell. Mikey and I met up at Stonhenge and were not let down. The swell was there, the wind was slight off shore and it looked beautiful. Mikey was dropping into some bombs out on the third reef, and the other surfers that were out there were all stoked to be there with only a handful of others in the water. Mikey knows this spot like the back of his hand and was getting some really good ones, enjoying his new Pat Ryan sled for the first surf. I shot all day, and on the way home, right near the end of the day, got a call from my friend Shawn Tracht saying that HoChi's was going off with beautiful small waves and extreme back lighting. So, I set up for my second session of the day, and shot photos there until the sun went down, arriving home when it was pitch black out and the stars were once again filling the night sky! Remember my credo "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young" ..... Da Lieb