January 24th. 2016

A few days ago the NWS was calling for a big West swell and South winds, which can really light up this section of Califonia. So, I set off to see if my hunches were going to pay off. I wasn't let down. The wave faces at a couple of the breaks were in the 15-25 foot range and the wind was howling straight into the face of the waves. I mainly shot two different breaks, The Right, and The Left! The right was just going off, and there was one guy out who was dodging bombs the whole time, until he got separated from his board after riding one wave. Very difficult conditions at the right this day. Guy paddled out by himself. and not sure what was the outcome of his board. The Left on the other hand had a small crew out there charging these beasts. I recognized Chris, and this other guy that was shooting pointed out his Son, I believe his name was Neal Clark, a goofy foot who was charging as well as the rest of the crew. Saw two boards wash into the cliffs, one guy paddling back in on half his board, and a few lucky swimmers who made in back to the dirt and then had to scramble down the sheer cliff to retrieve their boards, which in itself was another near death experience!! Had a great time and ran into my friend from Idaho, Daryl Hunter who was also shooting. Great time! Remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb