January 17th. 2021

This session started out at a break called "Body Snatchers." The undertow and shore break here has snatched people from the shore, or paddeling out and swept them out to sea. Even experienced watermen and women! The waves were really rough and basically moving up the beach too fast to line up or even surf. We left this spot and went to the second spot of the day called Rufus Del Norte. The waves here were much more manageable, the lighting was excellent and everyone was having a good time. After a while the wind switched direction and made the surf a bit sloppy. After surf Chris and I enjoyed some wonderful chicken mole enchiladas. Thanks for sponsoring lunch Chris! All in all a great day with surfing buddy Chris Rodriguez, Remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb