Jamuary 31st. 2016

I am one that reads charts, listens to the National Weather Service radio reports religiously daily for 45 years, listen to friends and keep my ear out for upcoming good conditions. Well the later part of this week, it was looking like there was going to be a bombing swell on Friday, so got my batteries charged, lenses cleaned. and jerked my friend Ken Manfred;s string to see if he would like to tag along and see what we see. Ken is famous for shooting motor sports, is a great shooter, ex-surfer and loves to shoot just about anything. I really dig hanging out with my Buddy, we basically laugh all day and talk shop. Well, we weren't let down this past Friday. The swell was about as big as I have seen on this stretch of coast which is notorious for reefs that can handle size, and create some true Big Wave Surfing. Now understand this: Big wave surfing is completely different from small wave high performance surfing. Big waves require big boards, most guys ride 10 foot plus equipment. You need that long of a board just to be ables to paddle into the behemoth waves. The six surfers that went out to challenge these life or death waves, spent most of the time dodging bombs and huge close out sets. They were taking off in an area that normally would be the end of the wave when its a 15 to 20 foot day! But this huge day, where they were riding was a super challenging really large wave. The conditions could of been a lot better, There was side shore wind and then after about an hour and a half pea soup fog rolled in to end the photographers and Surfers session. However managed to catch a few waves and document this truly epic day. Always remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb