December 9th. 2015

This is another session from the other day, when the swell was pumping. I went back to Ho'Ch'is after lunch to see what it was doing. There still were some pretty ones. Out this afternoon were: DJ, Guy Guy, Sody and Dono. They all seemed to be getting some fun ones, and I was stoked that I could be there to document this stuff. Because, thats what it really is; documention of current Surfing, which in the future will be archival. And when it becomes old, everyone will be happy I was there to record their rides?! I have gone through many decades of seeing this Love, Hate, Love syndrome, and nothing really stops me from pursuing my passion. Ive been threatened, bullied, called names, had my car waxed, told to go home (at my home break), but none of that has deterred me. Many of my detractors, I assume will be happy sometime later in life to have a great surfing photo of themselves on their wall. Thats just the way it goes. And so it goes! Remember my Motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb