December 8th. 2015
With this swell being so huge, the first few places I looked at were in the 20-30' range and either closed out, unruly or ridiculous! I knew that there was one spot that might be able to handle, so I bolted strait for the Harbor. I have never been to this spot before, so I had to ask a few locals where it actually was. While walking in, I saw some of the most majestic, huge, gnarly, thumping waves I have seen in quite a while. The Ocean was in full fury. The Harbor Patrol was guarding the entrance so that no ship's could enter or leave. Someone told me that they were doing maneuvers where they roll the ships over upside down and practice just in case. Bear in mind that these ship are 47 feet long, in comparison to the waves! Didn't see any rollovers, although I would of been really stoked to photograph that. There were two guys out surfing tho big left off the jetty. One guy broke his leash on the first wave I saw and had to swim out and didn't return. The second guy got two waves, then called it a session. I also stopped on the way out, in the Harbor to see one of the "Tall Ships" that was anchored there. Pretty cool to see. Had a great session and will look forward the next time I get to photograph this beautiful and unique spot. Remember my motto; :Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Liebs
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