December 7th. 2015

Ho'Chi's has been firing so good recently, it is hard to drive past it looking for better surf. Yesterday was a good example of this theory; when you see good surf, don't drive away from it. The last week or so, the surf has been so good, I can't recall a time when I have been able to shoot good to great surf every day! Very satisfying for me, and stoked to be able to capture these memories for know and unknown friends. This thing that I do vacillates betweens passion and addiction! I believe this is what has been keeping me going for almost fifty years now. Im still excited like a from every time I head off in the morning to go see what I am going to see! Remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb