December 6th. 2015

Yesterday I went back to Ho'Chi's again!! It has been so good, just figured Id give it a look. It was still doing it! Maybe not as clean, offshore or sunny, but still had excellent waves. This place when it gets this good, can sometimes get very crowded, maybe 20 people plus, but most everybody knows each other, giving Aloha and getting Aloha. Shawn seems to get a ton of waves, he lived not far from this reef, surfed this wave a thousand times, knows every barnacle on the reef, the finite difference with the tides and usually dominates, in a very friendly and sharing way (Aloha)! Seemed to me, everyone was having a blast. People were riding Longboards, shortboards, twinnies, body boards, new boards and fifty year old ones. Another great day to be a surfing photographer, to be alive and enjoying the beauty that this life gives us. Remember my motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Liebs