December 6th. 2014

This beach is called "Flukies" because it is very fickle to catch. It takes a very specific angle swell, tide and wind. If the degrees are off by five one way or the other, it won't break. This day, however, my old friend, the Mesa Madman; Steve-O Bissell called me and told me it was going off. I immediately dropped everything I was doing and was out the door in less than ten minutes. There was some really good surfers out enjoying this freak swell, which included; Dane, Bobby, Conner, Parker, Wayno, Kilgar, Bushy, 2 Ben's, Little Joe and Hoss! I love going to this spot, it just has an old school Hippy vibe (suits me fine) dogs running around, Hippy chicks on the beach, the smell of Herb in the air, and it seems like I know most everyone there, really feels like home! So don't forget my creed "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young" .... Da Lieb