December 5th. 2020

This morning got up at the before crack of dawn to go out and search for some of these pumping swells that was rocking the buoys. 9'@ 18 seconds! Hooked up my with long time surfing partner and general madman Rick Gannon and off we went. Cruising the coast we saw huge swells, probably in the 10-20' range! Problem being that it was either closed out at some spots, or the off shore wind was blowing about 30 miles per hour, so we never plugged into a spot that looked doable to Rick, so we headed back to Rick's Casa Rural and I went back up to my one of my go to spots HoChi's! It isnt called that any more as they have built this gnarly staircase down to the water so now its called 400's, for the four hundred steps! I guess a couple of people fell from the old trail so it was a necessity to prevent lawsuits?! Still the same place with possibly a new crew of young groms out shredding. Made photos for a couple of hours, then jammed home to see what they looked like. Remember my motto: "Stay Stoked. and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb