December 2nd. 2015

Yesterday the swell was still piping, so I decided to go to Ho'Chi's which face the perfect direction for yesterdays swell. I got there pretty early and hooked up with Shawn who needed photos for his upcoming column in DEEP magazine. Ho'Chi's is a reef break that when it hooks up can provide a very long ride. Yesterday there were quite a few that were reeling all the way into the inside, which sometimes will get hollow as well. Plenty of my friends were out along with Shawm including; "The Rig" Daron, Philly and a few other that all were sharing waves and smiles. It stay good until around 11 a.m. when out blew out in a very fast fashion! End of session for me. I really dig going to this break, because there are many great angles, both high and low to shoot here. So, always remember my Motto: "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb