December 24th. 2015

Yesterday Shawn, Gabe and I piled into Shawns Prius with three surfboards, camera gear and a couple of boxes of Christmas cookies that Shawns wife Erin gave me and Gabe. Gabe was very smart, knowing Shawn, and he took a bite out of ever cookie to try and put a kibosh on Sean grubbing them, me, I wasn't so fortunate, and by the time we got to the beach Shawn had cherry picked all the good ones from my stash and plowed right through them! That was ok, because I went ahead and rubbed motor oil all over the deck of Shawns new board! No just kidding, we all have a lot of fun, it wasn't really motor oil, it was Shawns hair stuff!!! Anyways, after driving up and down a short stretch of the coast, we touched down at a spot called Swing Sets, because there are swings on the beach. The waves were smallish, crisp, we were pleasantly provided with offshore winds at this little niche in the coast, and the surf was pretty nice until the wind changed directions and sorta side shore blew out. Along with Shawn and Gabe, the only other face I recognized was Trent Popovich who is a local up and coming sheddah! This was the very first time I have made any photographs at this particular spot and was really stoked. All the people that came up and talked with me were Aloha filled making for a very pleasant day. Remember my motto; "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb