December 1st. 2015

Yesterday started out by going to one of my favorite beaches. On the way out there all the flags were blowing straight offshore, which is always a good thing when a new ground swell rolls into town! Comimg over the last little mountain, where you get the first glimpse of the ocean, I could see that it was really big, and howling offshore winds. I know this beach very well, and this point, knew that it was only going to be line up shots, as no one but fishermen and crazy photos hang around here very long! It was so big, it was hard to tell if it was ten, fifteen, or twenty feet! So I knew I had to jamb out there take a few lineup shots, and book somewhere else, which is exactly what I did. Ariving at the pier about a half hour later, I kew the swell would be one fourth the size which it was. Itoo, was sorta closed out, but all the local boyz were giving it a try, so did I. The set closed out the beach and the smaller ones, once in a while were doable. Giving it the old college try this session were; "The Mayor" Walt Cerny, Ricky, Danny, Philly, Robbie and couple of other Blokes! In between the closed out bombs, the Boyz were having fun. All in all, a very satisfying day indeed for me@ Remember my motto; "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." Da Lieb