January 16th. 2015

You know, we all get very comfortable with our everyday routine. Routine can extend far beyond our daily habits, it can also be your favorite surf spots that you hang around, surf all the time and even photograph. You get to know every rock on the beach, every nuance of the tides, wind and swell. The way the kelp looks. You just feel at ease with that, sorta like an old pair of sneakers that enjoy wearing until there is nothing left of them and you have to throw them away and buy a new pair. Well, yesterday, Eric and Jason Knowles and I sorta decided to do just that and go to someplace where we had never made photographs at before. This area is teepee in very harsh stories of outsiders getting beaten down, having their tires flattened and windows of their cars waxed. I actually hadn't been there in almost 35 years! I was very nervous about shooting there, as in the past, photographers were less welcome than "outsiders." Well, I was very surprised. I received more Aloha there than some of my "old sneakers" spots that I frequent! It was a very pleasant day, and, did I mention the waves were smoking?! For me, it was very fulfilling, hanging with two of my Bro's and coming home with some beautiful images which to share with old and new friends. Remember, "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Young." ........ Da Lieb