April 2nd. 2015

A few days ago, when there were rumors of the South Swell, so I chatted with Chris and we decided to head out to check out a spot I have never shot at before, called Wood Piles. The reason this spot has that name, as it seems that a whole lot of driftwood seems to accumulate on this beach. It comes down the coast from who knows where and I guess the prevailing wind and currents push all this flotsam up onto the beach, then the huge waves and tide push it back further up where it rarely goes back out into the sea. Great place to find gems from the sea.
So Chris and I rondevoued with Mikey, Humblodt Johnny, and Drew and caravaned to Wood Piles. The walk in is sorta long, the first half being easy on hard packed trails along the bluff, then the second half in deep soft sand.
Pulling up on the beach, I think we were all a little disappointed, as it appeared, the swell had not yet materialize, but the boys went out and charged in the smaller, but very fun and uncrowded surf. Chris and Johnny surfed the South end left, and Mikey paddled up to the North and surfed a right.
The lighting and water colors were outstanding, so I had a wonderful time, even though it wasn't the Uluwatu we were expecting!
Always remember my saying of life; "Stay Stoked, and Stay Forever Ypoung" ..... Da Lieb